Chez Brunello Cucinelli, business as usual. Style sarto & casu-chic qui se distingue par sa palette neutre typique ; le bordeaux sert Ă faire le lien avec les gris et les bruns.
"Noisy Japanese Cotton Nylon. A certain ecclesiastical mood. UPS driverâs getups. A typewriter cotton. 80âs and 90âs American sportswear. Greengrocer jackets. Bonded leather.â Nick Wakeman, creative director and founder of Studio Nicholson is unpicking the various creative threads that led to Spring '25 across the menswear and womenswear collections.âAs always, it began with excitement over fabrics and where those could potentially lead us. But of course, along the way, various subplots emerged which have given way to a collection that features a lot of long silhouettes, a kind of softness, and a handful of strong yet steady wardrobe archetypes, such as a varsity or donkey jacket and a 90s fit jean, all of which Iâm very into,â she says.
The menâs and womenâs wardrobes continue to cross at Studio Nicholson, and the idea of unisex garments is being continually explored. One of the seasonâs key pieces is the Alph varsity jacket in darkest navy and black, which is discreetly nonchalant whether styled with a dress or jean. The womenâs collection features a bonded leather black coat that nods to the idea of a menâs donkey jacket - the Ridger, which is simultaneously soft yet tough.
The Riso jean in a worn washed indigo might officially be a menâs shape but Wakeman sees this 90âs style as a look she herself and no doubt many other women will ultimately embrace. Itâs rendered in 14oz Regen denim in washed black or worn wash indigo and is a simple straight cut. Very the Viper Room. Meanwhile, the just-below-the-knee tailored Joshua short - breezy, effortless, pleat front - in parchment and darkest navy is elegantly cut to work for both men and women.
[âŠ] On menâs, the Seth one-button suit jacket in oil is finished in fluid viscose wool and boasts a strong, squarish shoulder. âI think this shape just feels very now in menswear but also isnât trendy which of course I hate,â laughs Wakeman.
[âŠ] Wakeman is also buoyed about long silhouettes on womenswear. âIâm very into long,â says Wakeman. âWe definitely looked at the way nuns dress,â she smiles. âThe details of the construction of their clothing and its kind of severity. An image by Charles Traub of three nuns window shopping in Rome in the 80âs in off-white habits and black headscarves I found myself a bit obsessed by.â [âŠ]
In addition to Wakemanâs obsession with brown and the seasonâs various pieces captured in conker - that also include the Sperro pant and the Bute top - an adjacent and integral colour for Spring '25 is parcel. Inspired by a combination of Wakemanâs love for greengrocer jackets and UPS delivery ensembles, several key pieces across menswear and womenswear are given the parcel treatment. On menâs the Crowe trench, Towa barn jacket, Ruskin shirt and Bosworth trouser are all typically purposeful in design without frippery or fuss - Towa is cropped just below the waist. For women, the Kukes shirt, Doring pant and Acuna pant all come in parcel and echo the discreet utilitarian feeling of the menswear.
(pour femme ça passe mieux je trouve, les robes sont vraiment chouettes).
, Javoue ne meme pas encore avoir fait le tour du lb
