S.E.H Kelly - British countries

That’s right.

Before Brexit, the prices on our website included VAT.

Now, they exclude VAT — but instead, DHL will collect the VAT on or after delivery.

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I don’t receive notifications of replies on this thread, by the way, despite « watching » it and having all notifications accepted and enabled in settings.

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Je me permets cette remarque à ce sujet : « I think these prices are not a problem for the other members of the forum. »
Il était question de vestes à plus de £1000. Ce n’est pas du tout le type de prix que j’envisage (£500 non plus d’ailleurs) et, au regard des échanges d’information sur les ventes de seconde main comme sur les périodes de soldes, j’ai bien l’impression que ce n’est pas un prix facilement ni couramment envisagé par un certain nombre de personnes ici.

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Pour des pièces de créateur, neuves, c’est compliqué de descendre en-dessous si tu veux conserver un équilibre entre qualité et éthique de la fabrication.

Rien ne t’empêche de trouver des anciens modèles sous Vinted & co, pour baisser le coût.

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What’s good about clothing is that there is something for everyone, at every price level — but that opinion and discernment and style is equal. A man can spend £5,000 and six months of time researching, planning, and fitting a bespoke suit, and another man can spend £50 and 10 minutes, and they can both look just as good.

I have no problem with prices high or low. But where I struggle, which I can’t quite articulate, is a huge percentage of price being middleman markup. I want a clear conscience when I set a price. I want my customer to get a good deal, and, selfishly, I want to be able to tell them honestly that they’re getting a good deal. I don’t like the idea of 50-70% of the number on the price-tag being retail markup. I want it to be the cost of the cloth, the buttons, and the time and quality of manufacturing.

I also (again selfishly) want the freedom to add a pocket or make a more complication, difficult design, without worrying that it’ll add £30 to the eventual price, and having to compromise accordingly.

(I know running a shop is expensive — rent, overheads, staff, marketing — and incredibly difficult, so the markup is necessary.)

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I think we are quite awake to these issues/topics in the small french menswear niche, since the most popular media about menswear, Bonne Gueule, has done a lot of work around sustanaible pricing — not too high because not luxury or always-discounted fast-fashion — and not too low to garantee to the brand a form of stability/sustanability.

That’s why I understand what you are explaining, personnally. Especially considering that you also have a design vision that you wanna impulse to your creations. And it’s really appreciated here.

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It is comforting to know there is still a niche for this way of thinking!

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Wow on en parle de ça ? mélange lin chanvre gaufré

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Elle est canon mais je ne comprends pas la longueur ; sur le guide des tailles, c’est 32 pouces et demi pour une taille M, soit plus de 80 cm.

If Paul comes around on the topic, I would be so interested to understand why is it so long. In the description, it is said that it could be worn untucked. It seems way too long to do so.


Veuillez arrêter, je vous prie.

Non, on n’en parle pas, il n’y a plus ma taille :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

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Thanks for spotting the shirt.

It is longer than our usual because the cloth stretched during the making of the shirt. It has a springy, stretchy quality to it, you see, and when pushed and pulled around the sewing machine, it stretched out. Quite a strange behaviour, but not unprecedented, especially when it comes to linens of looser weave. The burlap from which the field shirt is made does the same thing to a lesser extent. Gradually over time, with washing, the length will reduce back to the standard length for our shirts — probably not fully, but not far off.

Even at this longer length, I believe it’s still eminently wearable untucked: indeed, to my eyes, doesn’t look unusual in any way. The hem is curved so the 32" measurement is to the longer point at the back, from which the hem rises up to the sides by quite a large amount.

We actually took some photographs of it being worn earlier (very early!) this morning, and viewed from the front, it falls to about the knuckles of the wearer. I’ve certain seen longer shirts worn untucked — especially those British Army officers shirts with the curved front.

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