S.E.H Kelly - British countries

Elle me descend sous la fourche du pantalon et assez largement sous les fesses. Mais boxy long, si tu veux !

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ici on est plutôt sur un rectangle, @Inco en tant que prof de math devrait pouvoir confirmer ou infirmer

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Un carré est un rectangle mais pas l’inverse.
Dans une conversation avec @Fennec chaque mots doit être pesé et utilisé avec soin☝️

J’ai corrigé pour rajouter rectangulaire.

Par ailleurs, la magie des mots provient de leur polysémie : boxy = shaped like a box. (Rectangulaire pouvant convenir, disons.)

J’ai quand même modifié pour ne pas trop perturber le lectorat, si vous êtes plusieurs à tiquer sur le même terme ça simplifiera la lecture.

Si je me base sur cette définition, une coupe boxy est une coupe sans cintrage à la taille, très droite et rectangulaire (enfin parallélépipédique).

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L’aspect évasé en bas doit pouvoir se corriger avec un coup de fer à repasser sur les coutures latérales (veille à bien aligner les 2 pans de la fente tout en bas).

Si tu trouves ça trop long à l’usage, rien n’empêchera de faire raccourcir par ta couturière habituelle.

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Je note l’astuce ! Merci des conseils !

Faudra aussi que je fasse raccourcir les manches de 5-8cm…

Merci pour ce retour détaillé. Tu l’as prise en quelle taille ? Il n’y a plus de M sur le site, doc je me dis que tu as peut-être prise la dernière. Mais étant donné mon 1m70, je me dis que ça aurait été vraiment trop long pour moi. Peut-être retouché en longueur, je ne sais pas si c’est possible et si ça rendrait bien.
En tout cas, la couleur est canon, c’est un bon choix !!!

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Je fais 1m68 et je l’ai en M et le rendu est le meme que sur fennec , si tu es pas épais en faisant 1m70 le S pourrait le faire je pense .
Sur les photos produit c’est du S qui est porté .

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En M justement ! Je fais ~40" en tour de buste, elle fit nickel aux épaules et au buste, sans coller aux aisselles.

Après je fais 72-74kg et des épaules assez volumineuses. Si tu es plus fin, le S peut largement convenir

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La gradation des vêtements S.E.H Kelly est en général très compacte.
La marque est pensée pour des morphologies vraiment moyennes : 1,75-1,85 m, 65-85 kg.
Au dessus de cette fourchette taille-poids, le XL ne suffira pas toujours (en longueur ou en largeur).
En dessous de cette fourchette, le XS restera proportionnellement trop long, et des retouches seront donc nécessaires.

Exemple avec la première chemise de la liste :

Screenshot 2023-05-11 13.32.57

En XL, sont annoncés seulement 58,5 cm à la poitrine, 50 cm à l’épaule, 79 cm dans le dos, 91,5 cm pour la manche.

En XS, 48 cm à la poitrine, 45 cm à l’épaule, 76 cm dans le dos, 86 cm pour la manche.

La différence entre XS et M en longueur et longueur de manches est infinitésimale. C’est fait pour les hauts gabarits.

merci @Fennec et @Sakapof81
Je suis justement un peu épais donc je ne suis pas super confiant sur la taille S. C’est toujours compliqué quand tu achètes en ligne, surtout hors UE.

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The popover is inherently « relaxed ». If I remember rightly, the original base was our shirt. We then took some shape out of the body – including the darts that our shirt has at the back. The thinking is (a) you have to lift this item up and over your head, and you don’t ever want a struggle, especially in hot, sticky weather, and (b) it’s primarily a spring-summer item, and again, you want your body to breathe and feel relaxed, and (c) I can’t remember; I had it in my mind when I started the list but it’s gone now.

The splits at the side, which are built like vents on a coat, are similarly to enable lifting it up over the head with minimal struggle. They might wing out a bit more when the item is made in linen, as would the vent on a coat, and while ironing might help, I’ve never really considered it a problem and now that I dwell a little on it, personally like it (though I can see how others would not).

Oh – (c) was to counterbalance the shrinkage that inevitably comes with washing and washing and washing a linen item in the summer. The cloth is sanforised so that shrinkage is minimal — especially for linen — but gradual shrinkage mostly from washing (half a per cent on this wash, another half on that wash) but also from the creases and folds that accrue over time and makes an item « feel » smaller on the body … well, it’s a bit bigger and longer to account for that.

Same with the sleeves. They are perfect on me, but I have long arms. However, after 2-3 months of wear, they will be a bit shorter, and on me, that means they’re actually a bit too short. But on the average person (someone without the orangutang-sleeved genealogy that permeates my family line) it should be pretty good, although on the longer side when new. We do the same with our shirts. (On jackets and coats we do not do this as they’re unlikely to be washed with the regularity of a shirt.)

Sorry to waffle on.

I think our sizing is larger than a typical French brand. For a British brand, though, I’ve come to think it’s pretty much the norm. And the popover is in our « fairly relaxed style for warm weather » category, hence some of the appalling self-indulgent blather outlined above.

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Hi Paul,

Thank’s a LOT for your message, it explains both why the piece is as it is, and some of the inherent details regarding its design.

Regarding the « oversized » aspect of the cut, I’ve particularly liked your comment below ;

[quote=« sehkelly-paul, post:861, topic:126, full:true »] to counterbalance the shrinkage that inevitably comes with washing and washing and washing a linen item in the summer. […] but gradual shrinkage mostly from washing (half a per cent on this wash, another half on that wash) but also from the creases and folds that accrue over time and makes an item « feel » smaller on the body … well, it’s a bit bigger and longer to account for that.

Same with the sleeves. […] However, after 2-3 months of wear, they will be a bit shorter [/quote]
and it reminds me one of my most precious rule about buying new clothes : never modify the cut during the first year of wearing. Because something that could be too wide or too long prima facie can be at the right size after one year of wearing and learning how the piece is designed.

Your comment makes me thinking that I should follow my own rule and juste wait one full summer to « understand » this popover.

Which I actually already like a lot, but I’m sure that I’ll like it more after one year.

Thank’s a lot, again, for all your comments, I (and I’m note alone) learned a LOT by reading your message. It nearly encourage me to buy another piece and post about it here just to read your comments about it.

(Have you planned out a linen sport jacket/blazer, this summer ?)

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Thanks!

That’s really, really true about not altering a garment until you’ve worn it a fair while. I am sure many of us here have hemmed their jeans, or taken in their shirt, or shortened the sleeves on their jacket, only to realise that maybe, maybe … a few months later, it perhaps wasn’t such a good idea.

We try to consider as much as possible when developing a garment. We are currently working on an anorak / smock which, like the popover, is worn up over the head. And, like the popover, we are considering the width of the neck, the space around the underarms, and other facets so it is enjoyable to wear, and crucially, inviting to put on. I hate to think of our garments languishing in the wardrobe or on the coat rack because they’re just not enticing to put on, whether because they’re too tight, or cumbersome, or heavy, or other aspect that means they fall into post-honeymoon disuse. We try to balance this with doing something novel or different: careful consideration all by itself isn’t very exciting!

We don’t have any linen jackets upcoming, sorry to say. We have our SB jacket, which suits most styles of cloth, but it has been hard to put an interesting, creative spin on it in relatively simple cloth like linen. Previously we have used some more interesting linens (such as handwoven linen from Scotland, or very marbled, mottled linen from Northern Ireland, or mixed with silk from the south coast of Ireland) but nothing this year or in recent years has excited us much. We never stop considering it, though — the SB jacket is our only tailored style jacket and we’re always thinking about how to deploy it best. The truth is that the cloth made in the British Isles (such is our remit) for the warmer months of the year generally aren’t as head-turning as the many tweeds and woollens and cashmere of the winter.

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I’ve screwed up by modifying too early some pieces back in the days. I still can’t get over ruining a Camps de Luca jacket by overadjusting the cut. :smiling_face_with_tear:

Because of the global warming, I strongly believe that there’s a room for formal but cool/fresh jackets. At least that’s the direction I want to take with my wardrobe. (But it means less tweed jackets ;_; .)

It also invite people to use it the way you designed it (for example the long sleeves of the popover, inviting people to roll up them).
It reminds me the concept of affordance in theory of design. How the physical structure of an object (here a garment) leads you to use it in a specific manner. It’s precisely how I see the popover, for example, and since it’s how you designed it, I guess you’ve done a pretty good job.

(Sorry for the bad english btw.)

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Super interesting!

Never heard of the affordance theory in design.

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Je mets cette annonce ici plutôt que dans le topic Vinted, puisqu’on discutait de cette popover/vareuse quelques messages plus haut :

Vu le positionnement de la poche poitrine, il s’agit de la première version sortie en 2020 (comme celle que je porte un peu plus haut).
Taille S
80€ avant négociation … même sans négo, c’est un bon prix étant donné la rareté de l’offre.

Vérifiez les mesures et lancez-vous, vous ne le regretterez pas.

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Très sympa, tu as une idée de comment ça taille ?